OPCIONARIO Options Encyclopedia
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Hedging

ES: Cobertura (Hedging) PT: Hedge / Cobertura

Reducing an unwanted exposure by taking on another that offsets it: which instruments exist, what they cost, and why permanent hedging almost always turns out expensive.

What hedging is and what it is not

Hedging is deliberately taking a second position whose behaviour offsets the first against a specific risk. It is not reducing position size — that is simply selling — nor is it betting against yourself hoping to win on both. A well-built hedge is designed to lose money in the favourable scenario: that is its cost, and it is exactly what you are buying. The most useful practical distinction is between hedging an identified, time-bounded risk — an earnings release, a macro print, a court decision — and trying to hedge general market risk indefinitely, which is what almost never works economically.

Cuatro coberturas y lo que cuesta cada una Put protector mantiene todo el alza 1-2% mensual inviable permanente Collar put financiado con call ≈ coste cero renuncia al alza alta Venta de futuros neutraliza con precisión muy barato elimina también las subidas Cruzada bonos · oro · divisas coste bajo o nulo falla cuando más importa La cobertura permanente cuesta históricamente 2-4% anual de rendimiento Si lo que sobra es riesgo y no hay restricción para vender, reducir posición es más barato

The instruments and what each costs

Four families, ordered from most to least expensive. The protective put is pure insurance: it keeps all upside and sets a floor, in exchange for a premium that in indices runs 1–2% monthly for near strikes — a cost that compounds prohibitively for a permanent position. The collar finances that put by selling a call above: it can cost close to nothing, but gives up the range beyond the sold strike. Selling index futures neutralises exposure precisely and cheaply, but symmetrically removes participation in rallies. And cross-asset hedges — bonds, gold, safe-haven currencies — cost little or even yield, but only work while the historical correlation holds, which is precisely what fails in crises.

The problem with permanent hedging

The arithmetic is unforgiving. Continuously buying protective puts on an equity portfolio historically costs between 2% and 4% of annual return, and in most periods that cost has comfortably exceeded what the protection contributed in the episodes where it worked. It is the logic of any insurance: the insurer wins on average, which is why the business exists. The conclusion is not that hedging is always bad, but that permanent hedging is a tax on returns and must be justified by something more than discomfort with volatility. If what you have too much of is risk tolerance, the cheapest solution is almost always reducing exposure: it costs no premium.

When hedging does pay

Four situations where hedging has a clear economic justification. First, an identified, bounded event: hedging four days around an earnings release costs a fraction of hedging the whole year. Second, a tax or contractual constraint: when selling would trigger a tax impact far exceeding the cost of the hedge, or when there is a commitment not to sell. Third, an excessive concentration that cannot be unwound at once, such as an inherited position or one tied to compensation. Fourth, a defined horizon: if you need that capital in nine months for a specific goal, protecting against a collapse has a value that does not show up in expected-return calculations.

The mistakes that ruin a hedge

Three, very common. Hedging after the scare: buying protection once the VIX has already spiked means paying the highest price for insurance exactly when the risk has already materialised; hedges are bought cheaply in calm, not expensively in panic. Sizing it wrong: buying one put on 100 shares when the portfolio is equivalent to 800 index deltas leaves 87% of the risk uncovered while paying full premium and generating a false sense of security. And using structurally eroding instruments, such as volatility ETPs, for long-term hedging: their contango makes them lose value systematically, and what looked like a cheap hedge turns out to be the most expensive vehicle of all.

Frequently Asked Questions

How much does it cost to hedge an equity portfolio?
It depends on strike and tenor. An index put around 5% below the current price, at 30 days, typically costs between 1% and 2% of the notional hedged, and more if implied volatility is elevated. Repeated across a full year, the cumulative cost runs 2–4% of return. That is why most sensible hedges are tactical and time-bounded, or financed by selling part of the upside through a collar.
How many contracts do I need to hedge my portfolio?
The figure comes from beta-weighted delta, not nominal value. Translate the portfolio into index-equivalent deltas and divide by 100 — the standard multiplier — to get the contracts for a delta-1 hedge. If you use 0.30-delta puts, you will need roughly three times as many contracts for the same neutralisation. Hedging "one put per hundred shares" ignores beta and usually leaves most of the risk uncovered.
Are bonds a good hedge for equities?
They were for decades, but the relationship is not a physical law. The negative correlation between bonds and stocks depends on the macro regime: it works when the dominant risk is growth, and breaks when the dominant risk is inflation. In 2022 both fell together and anyone counting on bonds as a cushion discovered they were not one. Like any correlation-based hedge, it works until it does not, and it tends to stop working exactly when it is most needed.
Can a hedge make me lose more money?
Yes, in two scenarios. If the market rises, the hedge loses and that cost is real, not theoretical. And if it is badly constructed — hedging an index that does not match your portfolio, at a disproportionate size, or with an instrument that does not behave as you expected — you can end up with an adverse directional position rather than a neutralisation. A miscalibrated cross-asset hedge is especially dangerous because it looks prudent while it works.
Is it better to hedge or just sell part of the position?
Selling is cheaper and simpler, and in most cases it is the right answer when the problem is that you hold more risk than you tolerate. Hedging makes sense when you cannot or will not sell: for tax impact, contractual restrictions, illiquidity, or because you want to keep the upside through a specific event. If none of those conditions applies, paying premium to keep something you could simply reduce is an expense with no counterpart.